A Beginner’s Guide to Zippers

Zippers are one of the most common closures used in sewing projects, but with so many styles available, choosing the right one can feel overwhelming. Whether you're making a skirt, repairing a jacket, or adding a pocket to a bag, understanding zipper basics will help you select the perfect option for your project.

Zipper Terminology

Before diving into zipper types, it helps to understand the parts that make up a zipper:

• Top Stop: Prevents the zipper pull from coming off the top of the zipper.

• Chain: The series of interlocking teeth that open and close.

• Teeth: The individual elements that connect together when the zipper is closed.

• Slider: The mechanism that moves up and down the zipper, joining or separating the teeth.

• Pull Tab: The piece attached to the slider that you hold to open and close the zipper.

• Tape: The fabric strips on either side of the zipper that are sewn into your project.

• Bottom Stop: Prevents the slider from coming off the bottom of a closed zipper.

Common Types of Zippers

Closed-End Zippers

Closed-end zippers have a stopper at the bottom that keeps the two sides permanently connected. They are commonly used in skirts, pants, dresses, cushions, and zippered pockets.

Because the zipper cannot separate completely, it provides a secure closure while remaining easy to install.

Invisible Zippers

Invisible zippers are designed so the teeth are hidden behind the zipper tape when installed. Once sewn into a garment, they are nearly invisible from the outside, creating a clean and professional finish.

They are most often used in dresses, skirts, formalwear, and other garments where you want the closure to blend seamlessly into the fabric.

Separating Zippers

Unlike closed-end zippers, separating zippers do not have a permanent bottom stop. This allows the two sides to separate completely.

Separating zippers are commonly found in jackets, hoodies, coats, and other projects that need to open fully from top to bottom.

Two-Way Zippers

Two-way zippers feature two zipper pulls that can be opened from either the top or the bottom.

This added flexibility makes them particularly useful for winter coats, long jackets, sleeping bags, and other projects where adjustable ventilation or ease of movement is important.

Types of Zipper Teeth

Zippers are also categorized by the material used for their teeth:

Nylon Coil

Nylon coil zippers are flexible, lightweight, and versatile. They are commonly used in garments, bags, and home décor projects.

Metal

Metal zippers are durable and strong, making them ideal for jeans, jackets, and heavy-duty applications. They also add a decorative element to many projects.

Vislon

Vislon zippers are made from molded plastic teeth. They are lightweight, durable, and resistant to corrosion, making them a popular choice for outerwear and outdoor gear.

How to Measure a Zipper

When purchasing a zipper, the zipper length refers to the distance between the top stop and the bottom stop - not the overall length of the zipper tape.

If you're unsure which size to buy, it's often better to choose a zipper that is slightly too long rather than too short. Many zippers can be shortened easily to achieve the perfect fit for your project. How to shorten a zipper. 

Don't Be Afraid of Zippers!

Many sewists avoid projects with zippers because they seem intimidating, but with a little practice they're much easier than they appear. Understanding the different types of zippers and when to use them is the first step toward sewing with confidence.

And remember: shortening a zipper is often easier than finding the exact length you need, so don't let zipper sizing stop you from tackling your next project.