10% OFF STOREWIDE SALE
Tomorrow, Thursday, November 12th, 2020, we hope you will visit Our Social Fabric's online store and enjoy 10% OFF all items! The discount code is good all day and you can use it more than once (but Thursday only)!
Here's your special code for the 10% discount on Thursday Nov 12: OSFNOV
In preparation for this event, our volunteers have been busy receiving donations, sorting fabrics and uploading goodies to our online store. We are grateful to our donors and to you, our customers for your continued support of our growing, little non-profit. This is good work we do!
We don't often have a chance to acknowledge all the wonderful sewers and their amazing creations but we promise to do a better job at that, starting now. From time to time, we will be highlighting sewers and makers in our community who use OSF patterns and fabric in their creations.
Our first "OSF Maker Blog" is from Heather, who you may know from her Instagram account @heathersewist. Heather is a long-time volunteer and friend of OSF and is a prolific sewer and creator of useful and beautiful things. We asked Heather if she would make the "Pona Jacket" from Helen's Closet from our beautiful Navy Blue Pinstripe Wool Blend suiting fabric. She enthusiastically said yes and is graciously sharing her journey with us here. Enjoy the read and the photos.
OSF Maker Blog: “The Pona Coat by Heather”
This navy blue fine woven wool with blue pinstripes is a gorgeous suit weight and perfect for transition into fall. With a kasha (flannel backed satin) lining it could probably go all winter with room for a sweater underneath. I found this wool to be an absolute dream to work with - it presses beautifully and is stable and easy to sew with. You might be surprised to learn that I pre-washed and dried this fabric by machine before sewing it up. If it comes into my house it needs to be able to survive washing and drying or it has no chance for a long life - or at least, a long well-fitting-garment life…
I prefer to choose an outer and inner side of fabric (right side/wrong side seems so limiting to me!). This gratuitous tattoo photo (not really gratuitous - it was the best way to capture a reasonable facsimile of the colour in my basement sewing room) shows both sides of the wool and I chose to use the side that was less like dashes and more like stripes as the outer side for this project. For the bias finish on all the visible seam allowances, I used a cotton twill in a beautiful blue colour that works perfectly with the fabric. This was a relatively lightweight cotton twill - very stable and presses beautifully.
The Pona Jacket pattern by Helen’s Closet is a beginner friendly PDF pattern and can be found here. This is a dropped shoulder boxy jacket with a generous lapel and is designed to be worn open at the front. There are two views available - one cropped and one designed to be worn mid-thigh length. To show off the long lines of this lovely pinstripe, I extended the length of the longer view by 13” for a 44” finished length on this size 8.
The other change I made to the pattern was to add on a belt and loops so the belt can be tied at the front or back or left loose. I cut the belt from two 10” high (about 25.5 cm) strips joined to make a strip about 80” (about 2m) long. You can make it any length that is comfortable for you. I folded the long edges into the center, pressed, then folded it all in half, pressed, finished each end at an angle, then topstitched and edgestitched all around.
I made two belt loops from one 2” x 7” (approximately 5 cm x 18 cm) strip folded into 4 layers the same way, then cut into 2 after edgestitching.
(Helen’s Closet has a blog post here about how to add a tie belt to the Pona Jacket! I think her measurements are slightly different than mine, but definitely the same idea. Helen also has a blog post about adding lining to the Pona Jacket.)
The method I used to make the bias tape goes like this:
I draw approximately diagonal lines between two parallel sides of an on-grain rectangle or square of the fabric. Somewhat diagonal usually provides enough stretch and you get more strips if it’s shy of a 45-degree angle.
In this case, I measured and drew the strips 1 ¼” (32 mm) wide. To make one length of binding, I join the opposite ends of the drawn strips, off-setting by one line when I sew them together and that gives me a continuous length to cut, going around and around. There are many methods to make bias tape and people often cut them out and join the strips individually - this is just the method I prefer.
In order to make the Hong Kong seam finish with this method, I:
Stitch on the bias tape with a ¼” (6 mm) seam allowance1. Press and turn it to the underside of the seam allowance
2. Catch the binding doing a stitch-in-the-ditch (where the bias and seam allowance meet)
And, mostly, not have to trim the binding from the underside (unless I folded the binding over too tightly). I probably could’ve gotten away with 1 ⅛” (28 mm) this time but I wanted to allow a generous turn of the cloth because the twill was a little heavier than I am used to using for binding on lighter weight projects.
If you happen to follow me on Instagram, you may have seen this photo of the binding in progress already (@heathersewist).
I love seeing other people’s sewing projects in progress, so I hope my first ever blog post contribution might be fun for you. (I’m already looking forward to doing this again, one day!)
Do you like working with wool?
Thank you Heather for your amazing story,
Our Social Fabric
We are located at: Our Social Fabric, #270-1275 Venables (corner of Clark Drive) in Vancouver. We are Vancouver’s only NON-PROFIT textile recycling initiative. We are 100% volunteer run and we are dedicated to keeping textiles out of the landfill and into the hands of creatives – just like you! Thank you for your continued support for more than 10 years!
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